2017 – Fortunately, no unpleasant surprises on building my yawl anyway. Warm winter, lots to do with Kardinal and Beer Run, but still time to make some progress on the rigging, to start with. To hold the mast shrouds, the chainplates were installed.

Main chainplate 1/4 in 318 Stainless

On the inside, in the V-berth area is a half inch plywood reinforcement and a 1/4 inch backing plate.

Main chainplate backing

The rear chainplate position happens to be exactly where a deck beam connects with the sheer plank, so I made a cross-shaped chainplate to hold bolts on either side of the deck beam. There are backing plates on the inside, both quarter inch ply and 3/8 inch stainless.

Rear chainplate

Then, the mast partner hole needed a way to connect the mast boot and keep water from going down below. The goo on the right is butyl being squeezed out. (www.pbase.com)

Ring for mast boot connection

The mast boot will fit over this ring so as to form a dam to keep water from running inside. Toward the top of the main mast, I put three thumb cleats to hold the Colligo Dux loops in place for the shrouds and forestay.

Thumb cleat detail

Thumb cleat in position

On the main mast itself, I put a shelf to support the boom jaws. Two layers of 1/2 inch marine ply cut into half-rounds and epoxied in place. The blue things in the background are the rub rails.

Gluing boom jaws shelf

Looks pretty crude. Once the support cleats are in, I’ll clean it up and repaint the entire mast with Awlgrip. I’m not too happy with the one-part polyurethane I have been using for the spars. I thought it would be simpler to use one-part poly paint, but if you use it you also need the special primer for it and once you open the cans, both the primer and the paint begin to harden, and after a short time, you have to throw them away. I tried filling the cans with propane, but that didn’t help. So, I’m sticking with Awlgrip 545 primer (2 part, doesn’t go bad) and Awlgrip paint (same).

Now I’ve been working on the main sheet horse and the mounting for that. Reuel suggested making it of 1/2 inch stainless rod, but I opted for 3/4 inch and have set up the entire assembly. Here is an image of one from some book on the internet. The source for this image is The Project Gutenberg EBook of Yachting Vol. 1, by Edward Sullivan, Lord Brassey, C.E. Seth-Smith, G. L. Watson and R. T. Pritchett

Drawing of horse for main sheet

Here is mine. It is a bit crude. I couldn’t get thick enough rod to lay a nice fat bead, so it looks a little rough, but it is plenty strong. Two identically-sized 4 inch x 1/4 in plates are underneath these plates on the roof of the cabin. The plates and bolts are bedded with butyl. (www.pbase.com)

Horse for main sheet

The bolts go through the cabin roof beams at each end of the plates, and I put an epoxy core for one each of the middle two on each side.

Hole for epoxy core. The hole to the left doesn’t need an epoxy core as it passes through a very heavy carlin next to the sliding hatch

The hole is through the cabin roof where there is no roof beam, only styrofoam insulation. So, I filled these holes (two of them) with epoxy and drilled it out so the bolts would squeeze against something hard. The cabin roof has a 1/4 inch ply top and 1/8 inch bottom with 1.5 inch Dow blueboard in between. The cross beams are 1.5 inch square and about 20 inches on center.

As I said, the world’s most boring website.

Next to install are the rub rails. I’m going with screwing them in place with epoxy bonding them to the wale planks, then removing the screws, drilling the holes out and epoxying oak dowels in the holes and painting over those. I fear using Sikaflex 291 and screws will invite water into the screw holes. If I have to replace then, they are epoxy-xynole coated Douglas fir, I’ll just plane them off. No screws to hit. Here is the starboard rail just installed.

First rub rail in place

Have to remove the screws, drill out the screw holes, put dowels in the holes, sand and paint.


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