2016

2016 January and February were pretty dismal and cold in Virginia, especially for epoxy and working “outdoors.” We went to Peru and Bolivia for almost a month. What an amazing change! Fortunately, I happened to have 1491: New Revelations of the Americas Before Columbus by Charles C. Mann on my Kindle as this explained what we were seeing regarding the history and culture of ancient Peru and Bolivia and, of course the people and the present. A great deal about pre-Columbus America has been discovered since I was graduated from Penn in 1967. I used to live in Colombia, so am familiar with South America and speak Spanish. Even if you aren’t going to visit South America, I recommend this book as it reveals to the reader what was pre-Columbian America;  including North America where the United States are. Here is a link to a review of the book by Kevin Baker in the New York Times Book Review. It is interesting to know more about the 100 million people living in the Americas in 1491. And to find out about organized Peruvian cultures which date back almost ten thousand years.

Well, back to the boat. The sliding hatch is installed, and looks good.

What is left to do is building out the interior of the cabin; the galley, settees, cabinets, water tanks, and electrical things such as lights and navigation. Plus the rigging! Not to mention installing the centerboard and rudder. Plenty to look forward to.

The framework and actual cabinets, water storage, ice box, and head all add a great deal of strength to the entire boat.

Port settee and shelf/backrest frame

The cabinets and settees go in. Beneath the seats are water storage tanks painted with BrewCoat epoxy paint. Neat stuff!! (http://sscoatings.net/brewcoat.htm)

Water tank/settee base painted with BrewCoat

The tank tops and settee seat bases are also painted with BrewCoat, then epoxied on. Two Beckson plate holes for access to clean and maintain plumbing are installed first.

Water tank top and also the settee seat base

Just aft of the port settee goes the ice box, to be isolated in almost four inches of foam. First, I made the box shaped to fit the space and suspended it in place..

Ice box suspended in place

The, I put the front and top of the surrounding cabinet and filled it with foam.

Ice bin ready for foam

There is a lot more work here than shown, as the entire ice bin was lined with xynole cloth impregnated with epoxy then painted with two coats of BrewCoat, then the top glued to the main bin. The exterior corner seams were fiberglass taped and epoxy coated. Foam was poured in almost to the countertop level, then the countertop base was put on which has two holes to top off the foam through.

The head and cabinet above it are in. The head can be pulled out to use, then stored beneath the cabinet. There isn’t room to dedicate a separate room for the head.

Head, cabinet..

Here is what it looks like after the settees and ice box are finished out. Below is a photo of the port side settee, note the Wiley ports and fiddles are installed in this photo.

Settee finished out along with ice box on left

Then the galley goes together. First the shelves and framework are put in then the face is attached.

Faces of the cabinets being painted

Below, the galley cabinet face, including the doors, is being epoxied on.

Galley cabinet face going on

I had made the drawers a year or so ago. They don’t really match, so I’ll probably trim them down and make them white also. Later. Interior paint is Sherwin Williams Tile Clad two-part epoxy.

Galley drawers

On the exterior, I painted the entire boat, three coats of Sherwin Williams linear polyurethane. I saved about $400 using this rather than Awlgrip, but not sure it was worth it, although it looks good.

White paint – at least  three or four coats – sprayed on

Sherwin Williams Hi-solids Polyurethane and Hardener

After getting the paint on, I could proceed with the bowsprit, boomkin, chainplates, install the Wiley ports and so on.

I could write much about making the Wiley ports. Stanley Woodward suggested I use them rather than purchasing port holes or portlights. More authentic, Herreshoff designed them perhaps, cheaper, you can leave them open when it is raining and still have good ventilation, and they are pretty. I made a number of trial efforts in September and October 2016.

Mock up of Wiley Port

This mock up is too heavy. I fooled around with the design until I came up with this final version, below.

Wiley Port – final version

They were installed using butyl under the edges of the frames and also under the small bolts with washers as shown below. Butyl is from www.pbase.com.

Wiley ports going to be put on with butyl under the washers and countersunk holes

I got auto window glass cut for these. It is safety glass, like what is in most cars for the windows you roll up and down. Then, I made some storm covers for these wiley ports. They are covered with xynole and epoxy, then Awlgrip 545 primer and three coats of Awlgrip paint. They can be bolted from the inside.

Wiley port torm cover

This photo above is showing the cover before being painted. Just to have a look. Below is an image showing the wiley ports installed.

Starboard side Wiley ports installed

In the cabin, I shaped the entrance opening in the bulkhead leading to the V-berth and laminated the exposed edge with mahogany strips.

Laminating V-berth bulkhead entrance

 

Bowsprit – Butyl under bolt heads, holes countersunk

There is an ash hand-rail on either side of the cabin roof.  Below is a detail of the prep for the butyl to be used when the handrail is installed.

Detail of hand rail

The rails were made round using a large router bit on twelve foot one inch square pieces of ash, four times. I left them a bit rough or rustic so as to make for a better grip. It is held away from the roof with white oak risers.

White oak risers

Below is a detail of how the handrails attach, bolted through cabin top and support beams

Riser and hand-rail

These were painted and installed. I sprinkled sand on the underside of these handrails when I painted them. The carriage bolts go through the cabin roof where the roof beams are and a nut and washer hold them on the inside.

Hand-rail – You can see the butyl squeezing out of the joints, this can be peeled off later

I devised a way to step the main mast by myself, using the mizzen mast as a gin pole, placed on the ground in front of the bow with it resting in the anchor roller.

Stepping the main mast

It is hard to get a good photo, but it does work well. The main mast is almost 30 feet long and weighs about 120 pounds.

I also made the gaff jaws and boom jaws; both from laminated white oak.

Laminating curved gaff jaws

Boom jaws, about eight laminations

Anchor rollers, I made from stainless 3 in wide x 1/4 inch thick.

Bow Anchor Rollers

There is one on each side of the bowsprit. All three bolts go completely through.

Bow anchor rollers, from port side

There is an identical anchor roller on the boomkin, at the stern. I put a cleat on each end, bolted through the bowsprit and boomkin and deck with a two inch stainless backing plate underneath.

 

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2 Responses to 2016

  1. Rob Lind says:

    So impressive, my friend & roomie!

    • dwoodriff says:

      Hey Rob – Thanks for checking in on me here. I hope you and Lorna are getting along well there in the Red Sea. I’ve updated the website recently, so have another look. I’m probably going to the Penn 50th reunion. My best to you – Dennis

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